Not only is Chinatown the biggest in the country; it’s arguable one of the best Chinatowns in all of East Asia — perhaps even the world. Swarming with over 600 shops and restaurants, the area spans about 500 meters on all four sides. Needless to say, there’s much more to this bustling destination than the large stores lining Chukagai Odori (Chinatown Main Street). One step in a new direction and its real treats lie in less visible sights and establishments: the narrow back streets and hole-in-the-wall shops you never saw coming.

In the labyrinth that is Chinatown, the familiar storefronts of big businesses are but one hue in a palette of seemingly infinite colors. The deeper you venture into these back streets and alleys, the further you trek from the noise of pedestrian traffic; the more vivid these colors seem. To give a list of recommendations would be, in a sense, counterproductive to the nature of serendipity inherent in such an adventure. Still, most would agree that the best bowl of steaming rice porridge, the most addicting toshomen(fideos cortados con cuchillo) y las albóndigas de sopa más jugosas se encuentran, de hecho, fuera de los caminos trillados.

In Greek mythology, the Labyrinth was an elaborate maze designed to trap the monster Minotaur, who, coincidentally, was known for his gluttony. According to the myth, seven girls and seven boys entered the maze every year, only to be found and ravished by the half-bull, half-man creature. It seems appropriate, then, to liken the winding paths of Chinatown to a labyrinth. Its visitors forever seeking a newfound gourmet treasure, or perhaps a rare souvenir, as Minotaur, too, roamed in search of his next fulfillment — wandering, discovering and finally indulging to the heart’s content.

Why is it that, upon stepping into Chinatown, your sense of direction seems to dissipate altogether?

La respuesta es bastante evidente si miras un mapa. Mientras que las calles circundantes corren paralelas al puerto, las carreteras y caminos de Chinatown se encuentran en diagonal, apareciendo como un grupo inclinado en una cuadrícula que de otro modo sería prístina. De ahí la sensación inicial de desorientación. Es posible que usted, o mejor dicho su cuerpo, haya tenido la intención de caminar directamente hacia la avenida principal, pero lamentablemente este vecindario tiene sus propios planes. La confusión se produce, sin embargo, porque una vez dentro, incluso los edificios más allá del perímetro de Chinatown parecen inclinados y extraños. Otra causa de desorientación de los sentidos.

It all goes back to the land’s origin as a plot of farmland known as Yokohama Shinden. This was before the city’s ports were opened (foreign trade in Yokohama officially began in 1859). When planting crops, it was necessary for farmers to plant north to south, so their produce would receive optimal sunlight. A logical choice by any measure. So, Chinatown may run diagonal to the harbor, but its streets also adhere to the Earth’s cardinal directions. As it turns out, then, there’s nothing to fear about this urban labyrinth. If you look up at the sky and note which way the sun sets or rises, you’ll know what’s east and west (you can also check the compass app on your smartphone). If you’re still feeling lost, it’s most likely due to the bustling array of shops, restaurants, mouth-watering aromas and pedestrians around you, rather than a mere directional dispute.